Re: [問題] 請問Dior設計師一職..
雞飛狗跳了九個月 現在Raf Simons傳言已經簽下合約了
希望他進了這麼大的品牌可以把大眾審美觀養胖一點
不然CFDA一直說model不健康不用都說假的
From Marc to Raf? (WWD Dec 13, 2011)
Now that Marc Jacobs appears to be out of the picture at Christian Dior,
industry sources said the French fashion house is closing in on a contract
with acclaimed Belgian designer Raf Simons to become its next couturier.
A deal with Simons, 43, has yet to be concluded, and sources cautioned that
several key details must be worked out. Chief among them would be a start
date, given that Simons, creative director at Jil Sander since 2005, would
have to unravel his contract with that Milan-based house, which is understood
to have been extended recently for an unknown duration.
What’s more, given the rapid cycle of collections at a big couture house, it
’s unlikely any newly installed designer would be able to produce a
collection in time for Paris Fashion Week in March, let alone the couture in
January.
Dior’s design studio, headed by Bill Gaytten, has been producing couture and
ready-to-wear collections since last March, when Dior ousted its longtime
designer John Galliano in the wake of his racist and anti-Semitic outbursts
at a Paris cafe.
Dior officials could not be reached for comment on Monday.
Should Dior secure Simons, it would mark the latest step up in an impressive
career for the men’s wear maverick, who added women’s wear to his design
repertoire only when he arrived at Sander.
It would also suggest Dior management is prepared to nudge the storied
fashion house in a more modernist direction, given Simons’ predilection for
minimalism and futurism.
Galliano, who brought spectacular showmanship and epic, romantic inspirations
to Dior during his 15-year tenure, had recently been devoted to more ladylike
dressing, turning out collections inspired by the founder’s earlier work and
focusing on iconic styles such as its “bar” jacket and grand eveningwear.
Dior presented his first collection in 1947.
Simons, too, has recently shown a fascination with midcentury couture,
incorporating ballgowns — and even bridalwear — into recent collections,
winning him rave reviews from fashion critics.
Simons has been on the radar of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, sister
company of Dior, for some time. When Michael Kors wrapped up his stint as the
designer of LVMH’s Celine house back in 2004, Simons was among candidates
that advisers of luxury titan Bernard Arnault had been touting.
In recent years, Simons’ fashion star has continued to rise given a string
of hit women’s shows for Sander. His spring-summer 2012 collection
reimagined ideas from the Fifties into hyper-chic fashions for today.
According to sources, Simons had also been approached by Yves Saint Laurent,
which has yet to indicate if it will extend its relationship with Stefano
Pilati, who succeeded Tom Ford as the house’s chief designer in 2004. Pilati
’s latest contract is due to expire in March.
Born in Neerpelt, Belgium, Simons moved to Genk and obtained a degree in
industrial and furniture design in 1991. He segued from furniture into
fashion and launched a youth-oriented, street-inspired collection of men’s
wear in 1995.
He started showing it in Paris two years later, and quickly caused a
sensation with his skinny tailoring, street casting, and such imposing runway
venues such as La Grande Arche de la Défense.
A designer with an intellectual bent, Simons is also an enthusiastic fan of
contemporary art — echoing Dior’s earlier background as an art dealer.
At Sander, he has elaborated on the German brand’s esthetic, adding dresses
and eveningwear to its signature tailoring. “I knew in the long run I couldn
’t only think about minimalism and purism,” he said in a 2008 interview.
For his spring 2011 collection, he invoked the grandeur of couture and the
extravagant style of Elisabeth of Bavaria, the iconic royal, a riposte to
other designers who had muscled in on minimalism. “It almost challenged me
to the opposite, to do the idea of maximalism,” he told WWD at the time.
Earlier this year, Simons was an honoree at Fashion Group International’s
Night of the Stars in New York.
Simons emerged as the new front-runner to succeed Galliano after talks to
move Marc Jacobs over from Louis Vuitton came to a halt last month.
It is understood Dior has considered a wide swath of potential candidates,
from young to mature talents, long insisting it would take all the time it
needs to find a designer strongly matched to Dior’s DNA and ambitions.
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