Re: Galiano被Dior暫停職務
哪個人集滿七顆龍珠準備把阿萊亞大師召喚出來了?
Guess who got called about the Dior job?
by Vanessa Friedman from ft.com
In all the rumours floated about who would be the next big creative director
at Dior, from names old (Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci, Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz,
Vuitton’s Marc Jacobs) to new-ish (Haider Ackerman and Sarah Burton) one
that hasn’t been mentioned but has, I discovered, actually been called, is
perhaps the most surprising of all: Azzedine Alaia. I had heard whispers, but
he just confirmed it.
To be fair, from a sheer talent point of view, this is not surprising: Mr
Alaia is often voted by his peers one of the most influential designers ever
(really ever; not just of the 20th century), and has been building a house of
singular vision for decades.
He is also one of the last hands-on couturiers, beloved by his atelier. Part
of the conundrum facing Dior is they need a designer who can work with the
couture, and most youngsters, brought up on ready-to-wear, don’t have the
know-how.
Besides, two Dior muses, costume jeweller Camille Miceli and fine jeweller
Victoire de Castellane, are often clad head-to-toe in Alaia. So you could
well understand why the Dior folks might have thought of Azzedine for the top
job at the big jewel in their particular crown.
But here’s the thing: Mr Alaia has been perhaps the most vocal advocate of
all living designers about the need to change the fashion system, to slow it
down, to stop the relentless demand for more collections and more store
openings. Years ago he stopped having official fashion shows, and started
showing, and delivering to stores, only when he was ready as opposed to when
the schedule dictates. And one of the houses that most embodies that
continuous pressure is Dior; indeed, when former designer John Galliano
imploded, the pressures of the system were cited as major contributing
factors.
Plus, of course, there are the small details that Dior rival Richemont
actually owns a chunk of the Alaia business and has been helping create the
designer’s archive (otherwise, he says, “they leave me alone”), and that
the designer himself is in his 70s.
Since I would never under-estimate Bernard Arnault, chairman of Dior (which
actually owns LVMH), nor CEO Sidney Toledano, however, this makes me wonder
if perhaps the group has some interesting plans to change the way it does
business up its sleeve, and will use the new designer as an excuse to do so.
If so, it would be a revolution that would have an enormous ripple effect on
the whole fashion industry. My guess is other brands would immediately fall in
behind; everyone is looking for a reason to change and slow down, but everyone
is scared to be the brand that sticks its neck out.
In a way, having a more mature designer at the helm who could act as an agent
of change and then hand a new regime over to posterity makes sense. And for
this, I guess Dior/LVMH would relax their current thinking about not letting
a designer continue his or her own line once they take on a heritage name, as
I can’t imagine Mr Alaia closing his house for Dior – though I can imagine
the enormous premiums Richemont would exact if Dior tried to buy them out.
Anyway, in the end it’s moot, because Mr Alaia wasn’t interested.
Flattered, but not about to pursue. The story of what happened with John was
a sad story, he said when I asked him, and he didn’t want to be part of the
next chapter. And that’s even before you got to the other stuff.
The sheer fact that the Dior leadership was thinking this way does, however,
make me think the field may be more open than the fashion world suspects.
Goody.
LVMH快加碼啊 阿萊亞很好召喚出來的 給他保證每天有五小時睡眠他就滿足了
我想看他設計Dior!!!!
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